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Fabio's pantry

How to identify the fresh fish

Identification of Fish

From 01/09/2000 you will find a very rare document original of 1934, given by Mr. Vladimiro Spadoni containing recipes, comments, historiography and use of Adriatic fish, that will be published in integral way for the historians' and the gastronomists' happiness


BRODETTO ALL'ANCONETANA

From Ancona to Porto Recanati there are two traditions of different preparation of brodetto.
Monte Conero is the watershed : from here a branch goes up to North towards Gabicce, the other comes down until the
Abruzzo.
II brodetto Anconetano is thought the most ancient recipe, and it is the only unchanged one in its
preparation since the origin.


PREPARATION
The " rule " prescribes that the varieties of fish to cook are 13, and all typical of the Adriatic, opposite Ancona. Clean up and wash the fish, put it in a wide plate and pour a little amount of table salt. In a casserole with an oil glass, brown a thin cut onion and two crushed segments of garlic; add a half glass of vinegar (" the zuppa " is aromatized  and it is avoided that fish falls apart itself). Once the vinegar is evaporated, join minced parsley, the mashed tomato and a little conserve lengthened with water lightly salty. After some boiling put the small cuttlefishes down  that must cook a quarter of hour, at covered pan and on a slow flame; then, when the gravy begins to get narrower, the small cuttlefishes must be put in a side of the casserole and the rest of the fish is gradually arranged , remembering the right order: the squills, the shrimps and the large heads and the other types, the cods, the red mullets and the soles. Cook it not more than a quarter of hour on a slow flame, and then the casserole, removed from the fire, must remain covered some minutes more.Therefore the fish, with its sauce, dense enough, that will have assumed a beautiful dark red color, will be poured in the soup dishes and it will be served with untoasted slices of homemade bread.

BRODETTO ALLA FANESE
In Fano, that has had fishing traditions for centuries, there is the custom to prepare the typical brodetto.
The brodetto for its nature does not have a rigorous recipe; in Fano, for example, " the conserve" of tomato and the vinegar are used.
The brodetto must be prepared, naturally, only with fresh fish fished in the Adriatic sea.

INGREDIENTS
Oil - Onion - Mashed tomato - Vinegar - Pepper -Salt - mixed Fish (between which crustaceans such as squills or shrimps or crabs, small cuttlefishes and squids, sea-scorpions,fishing-frog, red mullets, race, cat-fish or ring dove, S.Pietro, soles).

PREPARATION
Make the onion gild with the oil and a little mashed tomato. Add the fish that, in order to conform the times of baking, can be cut into pieces of similar dimensions, add some water and vinegar, salt and pepper according to the taste and cook it for 15 - 30 minutes, so that the fish is cooked (detaching itself easily from the thorn) without falling apart. Serve it warm accompanying it with some bread, Tuscany type, soaked in the gravy. It can also be eaten after some hours from its preparation.

BRODETTO SANBENEDETTESE

The recipe of Sambenedettese brodetto was born just in that zone called "u labirintu " that is in that ward of fishermen with small and low houses, intersected from several alleys, that have taken the name from the activities carried out for centuries: rua of the Fishmongers, the Calafàti, the Spagaroli and so on.

PREPARATION
In a casserole with some oil, brown the onion and join a little chili pepper, then add some tomatoes, a little salt and finally a soup, prepared with heads of other fish. In this soup small cuttlefishes and squids must be put to cook; while, apart, the squills, then the large heads, then the frog-fish, therefore red mullets, mullets and S.Piero fish are put in layers, in a casserole. With the gravy of small cuttlefishes and squids to flavor every layer, therefore put hen clams and mussels, bathing all with some white wine (Falerio dei colli Ascolani) and cook in a covered pan. Brodetto must be served on toasted bread slices.

BRODETTO DI PORTO RECANATI

INGREDIENTS
2 kg of fish of which at least half Kg of small cuttlefishes and the rest mixed (red mullets, soles, cods, mullets, ring dove, frog-fish, squills, etc.)

PREPARATION
In a great two handles casserole in abundant oil of olive, make the fine mannered onion brown and then add the small cuttlefishes previously cut into pieces; let them season and brown on a slow flame, then cover the same with soup of fish adding "zafferanella" (extracted wild saffron from a typical plant of Porto Recanati). Add salt and pepper and carry to baking always slowly. In another great casserole arrange  the several fish (previously floured)into layers, caring of leaving the most tender ones at the end. Once finished, pour all the Brodetto previously obtained with the small cuttlefishes (already arranged between the layers of fish ) add in equal parts warm water and dry white wine, regulate with salt and pepper and carry to baking on a  good flame for approximately 15/18 minutes . Use the two handles of the casserole in order to move sometimes the brodetto, avoiding therefore to break off the fish. Once the baking  is completed arrange the slices of toasted bread on appropriate plates and cover them with fish and pour over the delicious sauce. It is to be served like main plate accompanied with dry white wine but also with a new red wine or a coolness rosé.

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